Oil Products Crisis: New Opportunities For Plant-Based Alternatives

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Vegetable oils are found in thousands of products, from cosmetics and shampoo to cookies and other food products. They’re also used for cooking by billions of people and, in fact, are the food commodity that’s growing the fastest, with demand consistently higher than supply.

Current disruptions in the worldwide supply caused by weather issues, armed conflict, supply chain disruptions and labor shortages are resulting in higher prices, causing a ripple effect of sticker shock throughout the food economy, according to Amanda Leland of the Environmental Defense Fund.

Biofuels, widely used in Europe and whose demand is increasing, are likewise affected. Businesses with interests in these and other vegetable-oil-related markets need to take notice. With oil products in crisis, there’s an opportunity for new avenues of increasing supply, including indoor farming and replacing certain vegetable oils with other types of oils.

Current Disruptions

Russia’s invasion of Ukraine exacerbated the shortage of cooking oils, especially sunflower oil. Before the war, Russia and Ukraine produced approximately 75% (subscription required) of the world’s sunflower oil. With countries banning Russian imports and the conflict preventing Ukraine producers from harvesting, the supply predictions plummeted.

The next year’s harvest for Ukraine looks dismal due to the country’s disrupted transportation system, labor shortages and other related factors. This has caused ripple effects around the world where sunflower oil is used, including in the U.K. and Germany.

The supply of vegetable oils is impacted by labor shortages due to Covid and weather issues as well as geopolitical conflicts. For palm oil producers in Malaysia, the second largest market provider, there’s an ongoing shortage of both laborers and fertilizer, hampering production (subscription required).

Meanwhile, in South America, where over 50% of the world’s soybeans are grown, labor problems and ongoing drought are severely impacting production. This will require food producers to adjust as soybean oil prices reach a nine-year high.

The Local Indoor Farming Opportunity

This problem has created an opportunity for traditional farmers. Farmers can fill the current need by starting to produce other vegetable oils such as olive oil, flaxseed oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, grapeseed oil and sesame oil, which can be used as substitutes for vegetable oils.

Controlled Environment Agriculture (CEA) is also a solution. The infrastructure required for a controlled indoor grow environment can be easily built or adapted from existing structures, and it uses far less water than a traditional environment. This can allow for optimal results in places where access to water and fertilizer are limited and as we continue to face issues of drought.

Advanced indoor grow operations use hydroponics and artificial lighting to better control growing conditions and offer plants the nutrients and light levels they require. Automated tools can match energy, water, fertilizer, air flow and other data points to increase yields and profits. (Full disclosure: My company, Pangea, produces software and smart lighting solutions for indoor farming.)

A data-driven approach with centralized controls makes the oil-yielding indoor grow market financially viable, especially in the face of global conflicts and labor shortages. CEA can localize the growing of soybeans, palm or other plants. This will shorten supply chains and provide a long-term answer to regional issues driving price inflation and disruptions for providers and the end consumer.

One form of indoor agriculture is vertical farming, which produces foods in stacked layers instead of a field or greenhouse, allowing for a smaller footprint. This technique is not new but has existed for hundreds of years. Contemporary vertical farming uses LED technology instead of natural sunlight; the integration of light and technology gives precise data to farmers to reduce the human error that comes along with growing crops.

A market report from Technavio, a leading global technology research and advisory company, predicts a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of nearly 22% from 2021 to 2026 for the global vertical farming market due to increased demand and innovations in farming practices. The report points to the massive opportunity for localized indoor farming production of oil-yielding plants and the chance to address some of the supply issues with vegetable oils.

Techniques like these demonstrate how AgTech is quickly advancing to help secure a better future for farmers and consumers alike.

Source: Oil Products Crisis: New Opportunities For Plant-Based Alternatives

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Are You A Savvy Consumer? Tips For Smart Buying

Smart buying is not just about dollars. You very safety is often at stake...Pexels

So, you want to buy a baby crib? A treadmill for your home gym? Or a new car? If you’re smart, you’ll do plenty of homework to learn all you can about the safety of those products. And what about the food you eat, the cosmetics you use, and even that big screen TV you’re planning to pick up for this weekend’s Super Bowl watch party?

Hope you’ve done your homework. Literally every single product you and your family consume has the potential to cause you harm—if not physical harm, at least financial harm. To make the smartest buying decisions, you need reliable data. Not just anecdotal reports, but research-based, unbiased information.

A resource used by millions of Americans (as well as many others) is Consumer Reports, the nonprofit consumer organization dedicated to independent product testing, consumer-oriented research, public education, and consumer advocacy.

And to educate yourself on marketplace issues that affect your purchasing decisions, you can turn to Buyer Aware: Harnessing Our Consumer Power for a Safe, Fair, and Transparent Marketplace. The author is Marta L. Tellado, president and CEO of Consumer Reports.

Before joining Consumer Reports, Tellado served as vice president at the Ford Foundation, executive director of the Aspen Institute’s Domestic Policy Group, and vice president of the Partnership for Public Service. She earned her PhD at Yale University.

Rodger Dean Duncan: You note that Big Tech companies—Amazon, Google, Facebook, Apple—“have amassed enough muscle to snuff out rivals and co-opt ideas for start-ups.” In the face of that marketplace dominance, what’s the smartest approach entrepreneurs can take to get traction with new businesses?

Marta L. Tellado: What’s good for consumers is often good for entrepreneurs. A more competitive marketplace lifts all boats. We’ve seen increased concern around tech monopolies, creating a market opportunity for new businesses, especially those providing consumers with something the giants won’t. For example, DuckDuckGo, a search engine that values consumer data privacy, has been successful as a more consumer-friendly alternative to Google.

The voices of entrepreneurs and consumers will be critical in advocating for new laws countering the growth and concentration of market power in the hands of digital monopolies. Last year, several bills had bipartisan support, but they still didn’t make it to the finish line. This year, we need the help of entrepreneurs, who won’t be able to compete in a marketplace stacked against them. Big Tech won’t give up power willingly, so entrepreneurs and consumers must work together to change the digital economy.

Duncan: When using the Internet, what steps can consumers take to prevent their private information from being misused?

Tellado: When we surveyed consumers in 2022, only 7% of people were very confident that their personal data was private and not distributed without their knowledge. It’s justified – countless companies are selling your information to the highest bidder.

That’s one reason CR created our free Security Planner, which takes you through a step-by-step process to improve control over your data and strengthen your online security, like keeping your operating systems up-to-date and setting up multi-factor authentication to protect accounts.

Duncan: It’s clear that devices like Amazon’s Echo and Google Home have the ability to eavesdrop on private conversations. What other kinds of household devices should privacy-minded consumers be cautious in using?

Tellado: The short answer is – anything with an internet connection. People should be especially wary of devices with microphones or cameras. A CR investigation found that video doorbells can record conversations from 20 or 30 feet away. That has serious implications for private conversations in your own home or even when walking by your neighbor’s house.

Duncan: The bomb-throwers all along the political spectrum accuse each other of peddling fake news and misinformation. What are your suggestions for staying informed by reliable, non-biased sources?

Tellado: It’s gotten harder to distinguish fact from fiction online. We rely on the internet for shopping, news, and more, but the burden is too often on consumers to determine what’s unbiased, what’s an ad, and what’s misinformation.

That’s part of why our 6 million members joined Consumer Reports. They know we’re an independent nonprofit, that science guides our work, that we buy the products we test, and that we never accept advertising. Those commitments build trust.

So if you’re turning to online sources that are not transparent about their business model, my advice is to question the authenticity of anything you read. Check if it’s “sponsored” content, meaning it’s advertising. Caution costs only a few minutes, while the alternative could cost much more.

Duncan: All the hubbub around Covid issues—lockdowns, mask mandates, propaganda campaigns regarding vaccines—damaged the reputations of previously credible sources and institutions. What can be done to restore public confidence in what the “experts” say about important health issues?

Tellado: Widespread concern about COVID has been warranted. Millions have died, businesses shut down, and our way of life changed practically overnight. That said, public confidence was shaken in part because of confusion about the scientific process. Science is based on the best available information, and it changes with new data. It makes sense that guidance evolved as we learned more. This was a singular moment when the data and science around a life-threatening virus were evolving in real time with human lives at stake. We were learning new things everyday, and that made the environment ripe for misinformation.

Unfortunately, while we live in a world where life-saving information can reach people instantaneously through social media, we don’t have systems in place to moderate or stop the spread of dangerous misinformation.

That’s where platform accountability comes in. It is literally a life and death issue. Companies must take their responsibility to combat obvious fraud and misinformation seriously. If they won’t rethink their approach to moderation, consumers will need legal reforms to compel them.

Duncan: What long-term effect do you expect Elon Musk’s take-over of Twitter will have on free speech?

Tellado: Platforms are private, so free speech is not intrinsically guaranteed. But given their millions, and in some cases billions, of users, Twitter, TikTok, Facebook and others have become the public square. This is where consumer rights are truly civil rights, but our legal framework has not caught up with the realities of the digital marketplace.

It’s cause for alarm when a company of Twitter’s scale removes guardrails and experts required to review questionable and dangerous content while silencing journalists and other voices on the platform for critiquing the owner. Rather than focus on one company or leader, we need a radical rethink of accountability, so that our digital lives reflect and support the rights we have secured in our offline lives.

Duncan: What role does free speech play in consumers’ confidence in the products and services they buy?

Tellado: Free speech and consumer power are innately linked: Markets are about supply and demand, and consumers need the free flow of information to be able to effectively demand more and better.

As consumer advocates, we’ve seen attempts to silence us. One example is the resistance we faced from the Consumer Product Safety Commission when we wanted to educate consumers about Fisher-Price’s Rock ‘n Play, an inclined sleeper that, along with its knockoffs, was eventually linked to over 100 infant deaths. Fisher-Price knew that the product was dangerous, and so did the CPSC, but it took years to get it recalled, in part because a loophole, called Section 6(b), requires the CPSC to seek companies’ permission before releasing information about their products.

CR only found out about the deaths because of a bureaucratic snafu: the CPSC mistakenly released the information to us when they failed to redact the manufacturer’s name in a dataset about deaths related to sleepers.

When we reached out for comment, the CPSC’s lawyers sent us letters demanding the data be destroyed and not published – the government was attempting to suppress free speech, putting children in danger. We had a choice: Back down to the pressure or go forward with our report, regardless of the consequences.

We were confident in our First Amendment rights and moral place: put consumers first – put these children first. Two weeks after we published our exposé, Fisher-Price recalled millions of sleepers, and last year, we secured a federal law banning these dangerous infant products.

It shows how our right to speak out against our system is critical to building a better marketplace for all.

Duncan: One of the sub headlines in your book is “Algorithms Have a Race Problem.” Tell us about that.

Algorithms are decision making tools that permeate everything from what you see online to how much you pay for services, but they aren’t visible or transparent.

Algorithms themselves don’t harbor discriminatory attitudes, but they’re designed by humans steeped in societal bias. A 2018 CR investigation found car insurance pricing that was based on zip code, not driving record, leading to higher prices for communities of color. Similarly, using education and income levels in algorithms deciding insurance pricing perpetuates discrimination in the marketplace that we’ve fought to erase.

When our economic agency is undermined, so is our power to function as free, equal members of our democracy. That’s why consumer rights are civil rights. Companies must view their product and service design through a lens of safety and fairness, and responsible AI is essential.

Duncan: How can the average citizen help build a consumer-first marketplace?

Tellado: My book is called Buyer Aware because the first step is awareness.

We must recognize our personal power as consumers. We may go to the polls a few times a year, but we’re in the marketplace every day. Hold companies accountable with your business. Report dangerous products to government agencies. Use consumer tools to strengthen your rights, like CR’s Permission Slip, an app to help you control what personal data companies keep about you.

We’re also a collective force and need to demand change. I’ve seen how people can transform the marketplace and save lives. In December, Congress passed the STURDY Act to help prevent deadly furniture tip overs. That victory wouldn’t have been possible without parents who lost children to irresponsibly-built furniture coming together and demanding guidelines putting human life first.

You can go to BuyerAware.CR.org to find other ways to take action, from getting lead out of your favorite dark chocolate to ending loopholes for predatory lenders that leave you in a whirlpool of debt.

Duncan: What question do you wish I had asked, but didn’t … and how would you respond?

A question I get a lot is: Things seem bleak—can they get better?

When people ask that, I think of Rachel Carson. When she wrote Silent Spring in 1962, we were fighting against environmental threats we often couldn’t see, feel, touch, or taste. But citizen voices prevailed over giant corporations and unrestrained use of harmful chemicals.

Today, we’re battling a new set of harms we can’t always see in the digital world where the pace of technology has outrun consumer protections, from biased algorithms to companies selling our personal data.

I think we’re turning a corner and seeing a new generation of consumers demanding more ethical behavior from companies. 77% of Gen Z say they consider ethics and social impact when forming opinions of a company.

We’re also seeing some victories, like the Federal Trade Commission fining telemedicine company GoodRx $1.5 million after a CR investigation exposed it shared customers’ sensitive health information with third-parties. And New York ended the year on a high note for consumers by passing the Digital Fair Repair Act, which gave New Yorkers more control and choices in how they repair their electronics, saving them money and cutting down on waste.

Change is possible, but won’t happen unless we demand it—unless we use our consumer power and work with companies and government to build a more fair, transparent, and safe marketplace.

For the past 40 years I’ve consulted and coached leaders from the factory floor to the boardroom in some of the world’s best companies in multiple

Source: Are You A Savvy Consumer? Tips For Smart Buying

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The Everyday Chemicals That Might Be Leading Us to Our Extinction

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is merlin_157774782_7cc5ff4c-a15c-45d5-918d-1dc5d4c55561-articleLarge.jpg

If you’ve smugly enjoyed the dystopian worlds of “The Handmaid’s Tale” (where infertility is triggered in part by environmental pollutants) or “Children of Men” (where humanity is on the precipice of extinction) — and believed that these stories were rooted firmly in fantasy — Shanna Swan’s “Count Down” will serve as an awakening.

“Count Down,” which Swan wrote with the health and science journalist Stacey Colino, chronicles rising human infertility and warns of dire consequences for our species if this trend doesn’t slow. The reason, Swan explains, may be growing exposure to “endocrine disrupting chemicals” that are found in everything from plastics, flame retardants, electronics, food packaging and pesticides to personal care products and cosmetics.

She outlines the danger. These substances interfere with normal hormonal function, including testosterone and estrogen. Even in small doses, they pose particular danger to unborn babies and young children whose bodies are growing rapidly. These hormone-warping chemicals, which can enter even the placenta, have the ability to alter the anatomical development of girls and boys, change brain function and impair the immune system.

Swan is a noted environmental and reproductive epidemiologist who has studied this subject for more than two decades. Her work on falling sperm counts garnered worldwide attention in 2017. Media coverage focused on her central finding: From 1973 to 2011, the total sperm count of men in Western countries dropped by 59 percent. The quality also nose-dived, with more odd-shaped sperm and fewer strong swimmers capable of fertilizing an egg. Perhaps most important, the DNA they carried was also more damaged.

A study Swan cites in “Count Down” found that just over a quarter of men experiencing erectile dysfunction were under 40. That may be, in part, because testosterone levels have been dropping at 1 percent per year since 1982. The outlook for women isn’t good either. The miscarriage rate has risen by 1 percent per year over the last two decades. If these trajectories continue, in vitro fertilization and other artificial reproductive technologies may become a widely needed tool for conceiving children.Get the Book Review Newsletter: Be the first to see reviews, news and features in The New York Times Book Review.

Swan distills information harvested from hundreds of published studies and while some ring familiar, the conclusion she reaches hits hard. These chemicals are limiting the ability of current and future generations to have children. They could, ultimately, snuff out the human species altogether.

This is why Swan was compelled to write this book, one with apocalyptic implications. Despite the publicity, these alarming findings haven’t sparked changes in environmental policies, regulations or public demand for safe substitutes.

Her focus on male infertility marks an overdue inflection point, with the medical community’s acceptance that the health of both sexes is equally important. When a couple can’t conceive or a woman miscarries, she usually bears the blame. Swan dispels the myths surrounding reproductive failure. Yes, as women get older, their ability to get pregnant drops, but Swan reminds us that a man’s reproductive clock is also ticking as he ages. Abnormal sperm, increasingly common in men over 40, can also cause miscarriages.

Teasing out the mechanisms behind plummeting fertility rates is complicated. While man-made chemicals certainly play a role, Swan emphasizes that timing matters, with different impacts for those exposed in utero, as newborns, adolescents or adults. She walks the reader through the reproductive problems that result from contact with flame retardants, pesticides and what she calls “an alphabet soup” of chemicals.

For men, phthalates, found in many products, from plastics to shampoos, are the worst offenders, tanking testosterone levels and sperm counts — and causing sperm to basically commit suicide. In women, these chemicals may cause early menopause or cysts in the ovaries, or they may disrupt monthly cycles.

Bisphenol A, a ubiquitous chemical used in hard plastics, electronics and millions of other items, affects both sexes but is particularly concerning for women. It interferes with conception and causes miscarriages early in pregnancy.

Swan broadens her argument by documenting how these chemicals are jeopardizing the survival of many other creatures. Genital abnormalities are of great concern: distinctly smaller penises in alligators, panthers and mink, as well as fish, frogs, snapping turtles and birds that appear to have both male and female gonads, and mating difficulties in many species caused by altered behavior.

Swan highlights another layer of risk. Parents’ exposure to these chemicals can affect the sexual development of their children. If a woman smokes when she is pregnant, her son’s sperm counts may drop by 40 percent — and if he is later exposed to endocrine disruptors, his sperm production may drop so low that he becomes infertile. Swan describes the collateral damage caused by a combination of lifestyle factors — such as stress or bad diet — and daily exposure to toxic chemicals. The effects can radiate down through several generations.

Although most of Swan’s analyses focus on Western countries, she has uncovered similar trends in South America, Asia and Africa.

Swan offers a sense of relief in her wrap-up, providing practical advice on steps that individuals can take to protect their health. She goes beyond lifestyle recommendations, outlining a far more difficult task: Purging harmful chemicals from our homes by reading the ingredients on bathroom and kitchen cleaners. Choosing personal care products that are phthalate-free and paraben-free. Ditching air freshener and scented products. Not microwaving food in plastic, making sure to filter drinking water and toss out plastic food storage containers and nonstick cookware. The suggestions go on.

Swan does miss an opportunity to give more attention to real-life stories. When she mentions individuals, their reproductive problems are often described without the history or context that strengthens a narrative. There are times when a memorable personal story might have supplanted a rather detailed anatomical and chemical description. There are passages that suffer from what Swan herself refers to as “stat overload” or dozens of foreign-sounding chemical names.

Over all, her conclusion is well supported: the need for regulation, specifically United States federal policies that require companies to prove chemicals safe before using them commercially. Europeans favor this precautionary principle and are currently phasing out or banning the most dangerous chemicals. Swan underscores how this contrasts with the American approach of “innocent until proven guilty,” which then requires taxpayer-funded government studies to investigate health effects.

“Count Down” is an important book for anyone concerned about the environment, pollution, successful childbearing or declining health of the human species. Other than the pervasive chemical names, it is written in a casual, accessible style and will be of practical relevance to couples and young adults who are considering having a family.

Fertility is already an issue for some who have children later in life, when the effects of these chemicals may be more pronounced. Swan offers somewhat bracing recommendations for women who choose to delay pregnancy: Freeze your eggs in your 20s as an insurance policy. For men, investigating their sperm count early might reveal infertility trends when they are easier to correct. More broadly, this book provides a wake-up call that increases understanding of fertility, its challenges and the recognition that both partners play a role.

But ultimately her conclusion is a plea for swift national and global actions that ban the use of these chemicals and mitigate the effects of those that are impacting health and even life itself worldwide. Swan makes it clear that the future of many species, including our own, depends on it.

By Bijal P. Trivedi

Bijal P. Trivedi is the author of “Breath from Salt: A Deadly Genetic Disease, a New Era in Science, and the Patients and Families Who Changed Medicine Forever.”

Source: https://www.nytimes.com

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Science Plus

Episode 1 of 3 Check us out on iTunes! http://testtube.com/podcast​ Please Subscribe! http://testu.be/1FjtHn5​ We may currently well be in the midst of a 6th mass extinction but how much of species loss can be attributed to humans and their endeavors? + + + + + + + + Previous Series: How Fire Shaped and Continues To Shape Humanity: https://youtu.be/pZqmvy5YdAk?list=PLw…​ + + + + + + + + Sources: Are We In The Midst Of A Mass Extinction?: http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/evolution/ext…​ “Of all species that have existed on Earth, 99.9 percent are now extinct. Many of them perished in five cataclysmic events.”

How Does This Unique Volumising Polymer Work On All Hair Types

1

Market research and a perusal of social media show that while one of the top five benefits consumers require in a shampoo is volume[1-2], many hair care users are unhappy with current volumising products because they fail to deliver long-term performance, essential care, and conditioning properties at the same time[3].

There is also growing demand among consumers for products specifically tailored to the needs of their own hair type[4].

Within the hair care industry, it is recognized that volume is a particularly challenging benefit to achieve because, to date, the standard approaches taken – fewer care ingredients or light conditioning polymers, addition of styling polymers or addition of silica or cellulose powders – are known to have a negative impact on sensory and care properties.

These approaches can also be complicated and time consuming because they require modifications to the carrier formulation.

Introducing polyquaternium-110

To respond to this unmet consumer need, in 2019, DSM launched a novel hyper-branched polymer, TILAMAR Boost 150 (polyquaternium-110), which was identified through a collaboration between DSM Materials Science Centre and DSM Personal Care & Aroma.

This hair care polymer has demonstrated significant volume boost combined with care benefits. Moreover, it can be added easily to existing shampoo formulations.

The polymer’s dual benefits are achieved due to a structural transformation during hair drying. Its mechanism of deposition, via conservator formation, gives rise to lamellar structures that provide lubricant effects to ease wet combing. On drying these lamellar structures transform into hexagonal structures which provide the volume boost consumers desire.

Polyquaternium-110’s initial claimed benefits were substantiated by instrumental tests and confirmed by hairdresser assessments[5].

More recently, to address a growing consumer demand for bespoke hair care benefits, DSM carried out a new series of tests to assess the polymer’s volume and care performance on different hair types.

Different hair types have different needs

The benefits of improved and lasting volume are particularly sought after by Caucasian and Asian hair care consumers.

Studies on hair types according to ethnicity show that although the shape of a hair strand is not specific to any ethnic group, there are some broad tendencies.

Asian hair is generally straight, a round shape and low density. In contrast, Caucasian hair, whether straight or wavy, has a relatively elliptic shape and is characterised by high density[6-7]. It stands to reason therefore that a hair care product may produce different results in different hair types.

DSM’s instrumental hair test method

The instrumental test method followed, which involves before and after comparisons, was specially developed to provide hair care consumers with reassurance about the accuracy of results and tangible evidence about product performance.

Sample preparation

Hair swatches were washed either with a base shampoo (control) or a test formulation. Swatches were washed twice in succession using 0.5ml of shampoo per 3g of hair. Samples were combed five times to detangle the hair fibres and then dried overnight at 20°C and a relative humidity of 20%. After drying overnight, the swatches were placed in a climate room at 20°C and a relative humidity of 60%. Bulk volume measurements were then taken at different times.

Instrument

Hair volume was measured with a Bossa Nova Vision Bolero device. A camera took a succession of 36 pictures while each hair swatch was rotating 360°, back-illuminated by an LED-lamp. Software was then used to calculate the bulk volume, ‘frizz’ and total volume (bulk and frizz combined) of each hair swatch based on the difference between the light intensity transmitted (and grey level).

Results, expressed in cm3, reflected the calculated mean values of five hair swatches. They were then interpreted statistically using the ANOVA model with comparisons drawn according to the Dunnett and Tukey methods.

Various tests were performed using the above method:

i) Caucasian hair:
• comparison of the base shampoo and the base shampoo containing 2% Polyquaternium-110 as supplied;
• comparison of the base shampoo and the base shampoo containing 2% polyquaternium-110 as supplied and a conditioning polymer (0.25% PQ-7 active content);
• comparison of the base shampoo and the base shampoo containing 2% polyquaternium-110 as supplied with 1% PEG/PPG 4/12 dimethicone;
• comparison of a European market, volume shampoo with and without 2% polyquaternium-110 as supplied.

ii) Asian hair:
• comparison of an Asian market, volume shampoo with and without 3% polyquaternium-110 as supplied.

iii) Multiple hair types:
• Comparison of the base shampoo and the base shampoo containing 2% polyquaternium-110 as supplied and a conditioning polymer (0.25% PQ-7 active content) on four distinct hair types with different properties – virgin, straight, Asian hair; straight Caucasian hair (virgin and bleached); and virgin, curly Caucasian hair.

Study results demonstrate enhanced volume lasting 24 hours on different hair types:

i) Caucasian hair

As the graph in figure 1 shows, when 2% polyquaternium-110 was added to a base shampoo, volume performance increased by 196% for the first hour and by 32% after 24 hours.

Figure 1: Comparison of volume performance of base shampoo on Caucasian hair, on its own (grey) and with the addition of 2% polyquaternium-110 (pink) over a 24-hour period from first use

Figure 2 illustrates these results in visually tangible terms.

Figure 2: Photographic evidence of volume performance of polyquaternium-110 on Caucasian hair after 1 hour and 24 hours when used in a base shampoo at 2%

Enhanced volume was also evident when polyquaternium-110 was used in a shampoo base in combination with a conditioning polymer (0.25% PQ-7 active content).

Under these test conditions, volume performance increased by 213% after one hour and by 48% after 24 hours, suggesting that this is an optimal combination for long lasting volume performance.

The graph in figure 3 compares the volume performance of the base shampoo, the base shampoo with the addition of either a conditioning polymer or polyquaternium-110, and the base shampoo with the addition of both polymers.

Figure 3: comparison of volume performance of a base shampoo on its own and with the addition of a conditioning polymer or polyquaternium-110 or both

Adding 2% polyquaternium-110 to a European market volume shampoo was also found to increase the volume performance of the shampoo by 40% after 24 hours.

ii) Asian hair

Adding 3% polyquaternium-110 to an Asian market volume shampoo was found to improve volume performance by 20% after 24 hours. The images in figure 4, provide a visually tangible illustration.

Figure 4: Photographic evidence of volume performance of polyquaternium-110 on Asian hair after 1 hour and 24 hours when added in an Asian market volume shampoo at 3%

iii) Multiple hair types

Instrumental tests also showed that when it was used at 2% in a formulation consisting of a conditioning polymer (0.25% PQ-7 active content) in the base shampoo, polyquaternium-110 increased volume in all four hair types studied. These results were still visible 24 hours from first use.

Figure 5: Photographic evidence of volume performance of 2% Polyquaternium-110 in the base shampoo combined with a conditioning polymer on four different hair types

Proven care properties

DSM’s original study found that on Caucasian hair, as well as visibly boosting volume performance, polyquaternium-110 increased the wet combing performance of a shampoo base (measured in terms of reduction in wet combing force) on its own and when combined with a conditioning polymer[5].

Now, subsequent tests, carried out according to the same methodology as the original (testing with INSTRON 5542; five hair swatches were tested per product at 20°C and 60-65% relative humidity; 15 measurements were made per hair swatch[5]), show that on Asian hair, polyquaternium-110 also enhances wet combing performance in an Asian market shampoo.

Indeed, as figure 6 illustrates, the polymer’s lamellar structure was shown to help decrease wet combing force by 48% compared with non-treated hair, which was more than twice the decrease measured in the original market shampoo (19%).

Figure 6: Comparison of the decrease in wet combing force on Asian hair vs non-treated hair, in an Asian market shampoo, with and without 3% polyquaternium-110

Polyquaternium-110 in existing & new formulations

Polyquaternium-110 can be added directly to formulators’ own shampoo bases and only one drop is needed. It is compatible with cationic, anionic and non-ionic ingredients and can be combined with current traditional conditioning polymers. The typical use level for this ingredient is 1–3%, with a dosage of 2% recommended for Caucasian hair and 3% for Asian hair.

DSM has developed a range of market-ready formulations that combine polyquaternium-110 with other ingredients in its portfolio, such as vitamins, moisturising actives and UV filters, to meet a wide range of hair care needs in addition to 24 hours of enhanced volume.

All formulations have been tested in line with the instrumental test method described above and their results proven. The range includes:

24-hour volume shampoo for grey and white hair

With age, the diameter of the hair shaft begins to shrink, making the hair thinner and more fragile. In addition, a decline in melanin can lead to grey, or white hair.

This formulation has been specially developed for hair that is becoming thinner with age, and for grey and white hair, and bleached blond hair in need of a volume boost with a touch of care.

It combines the volumising and care properties of polyquaternium-110 with vitamins, DSM’s UV filter, polysilicone-15, for UV protection and violet colourant to overcome hair yellowing.

In instrumental tests on Caucasian grey hair, this formulation was shown to increase volume by 29% for 24 hours and to improve wet combing performance by more than twice compared to a base formulation that did not contain polyquaternium-110.

Sulfate free, 24-hour volume shampoo

This formulation, infused with moisturising actives, boosts hair volume for up to 24 hours and also leaves it feeling perfectly cared for thanks to polyquaternium-110.

In instrumental tests on Caucasian bleached hair, it was found to increase volume by 36% for 24 hours and to improve wet combing performance by more than twice compared to a base sulfate free shampoo that did not contain polyquaternium-110.

Because the polymer has been proven to respect the vitality, diversity and balance of the scalp microbiome, this formulation also comes with the claim of including a microbiome-friendly ingredient.

Traceability & microbiome friendliness

Polyquaternium-110 has been proven to respect the vitality, diversity and balance of the scalp microbiome and certified as microbiome-friendly, according to My Microbiome Standard 19.10[8].

This certification provides additional reassurance to the growing number of consumers looking for ingredients that do not have an adverse effect on the balance of their scalp microbiome.

It also comes with clear information about its environmental impact and traceability.

In summary

Polyquaternium-110, was developed to satisfy an unmet need for increased hair volume (identified by market research as one of consumers’ top five desired benefits) while also retaining care and conditioning properties.

Its unique mechanism of deposition, via coacervate formation, involves transformation of a lamellar structure in wet hair to a hexagonal structure as the hair dries, creating volume.

It can be added directly to existing shampoo bases, adding value without the need for time-consuming and costly reformulations, and is also compatible with traditional conditioning polymers and silicone.

In instrumental and hairdresser tests, polyquaternium-110 had already been proven to deliver volume performance and increased hair elasticity and style ability.

New instrumental tests now confirm that polyquaternium-110’s proven benefits last for 24 hours and apply to multiple hair types.

The instrumental test method provides consumers with tangible and easy-to-understand evidence of performance.

Formulations including polyquaternium-110 could therefore help meet growing consumer demand for products that can deliver a range of bespoke hair care benefits alongside 24 hours of enhanced volume.

Authors

Melanie Waeckel, Global Marketing Manager Technical & Performance Ingredients, DSM, and Emmanuel Martin, Head of Application Hair Care, Research & Development, DSM

Source: https://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/

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Inside Kylie Jenner’s Web Of Lies & Why She’s No Longer A Billionaire

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More than a decade into their fame, the Kardashian-Jenners tend to induce eye rolls and sighs among jaded media consumers. But when it comes to their wealth, even critics of reality TV’s first family are intrigued; the Kardashian-Jenner machine—and the cash it generates—has been the subject of articles, podcasts, even books. But no one cares more about the topic than the family itself, which has spent years fighting Forbes for higher spots on our annual wealth and celebrity earnings lists.

So when the youngest of the clan, Kylie Jenner, sold 51% of her Kylie Cosmetics to beauty giant Coty in a deal valued at $1.2 billion this January, it was a watershed moment for the family. One of the greatest celebrity cash-outs of all time, the transaction seemed to confirm what Kylie had been saying all along and what Forbes had declared in March 2019: that Kylie Jenner was, indeed, a billionaire—at least before the coronavirus.

Kylie is a modern-day icon, with an incredible sense of the beauty consumer,” Coty chairman Peter Harf gushed when announcing the acquisition in November.

But in the deal’s fine print, a less flattering truth emerged. Filings released by publicly traded Coty over the past six months lay bare one of the family’s best-kept secrets: Kylie’s business is significantly smaller, and less profitable, than the family has spent years leading the cosmetics industry and media outlets, including Forbes, to believe.

Of course, white lies, omissions and outright fabrications are to be expected from the family that perfected—then monetized—the concept of “famous for being famous.” But, similar to Donald Trump’s decades-long obsession with his net worth, the unusual lengths to which the Jenners have been willing to go—including inviting Forbes into their mansions and CPA’s offices, and even creating tax returns that were likely forged—reveals just how desperate some of the ultra-rich are to look even richer.

“It’s fair to say that everything the Kardashian-Jenner family does is oversized,” says Stephanie Wissink, an equity analyst covering consumer products at Jefferies. “To stay on-brand, it needs to be bigger than it is.”

Based on this new information—plus the impact of Covid-19 on beauty stocks and consumer spending—Forbes now thinks that Kylie Jenner, even after pocketing an estimated $340 million after taxes from the sale, is not a billionaire.


As with other Kardashian ventures, Kylie’s business began as a way to cash in on a minor scandal. The youngest of the family, she spent more than a year denying tabloid speculation that she was using lip filler injections before eventually finally fessing up to it in May 2015. Far from being embarrassed about being caught in a lie, she—and her shrewd mother, Kris—seized it as a marketing opportunity.

With $250,000 of her earnings from modeling, endorsements and Keeping Up With The Kardashians appearances, Kylie launched her first batch of 15,000 lip kits, consisting of a lip liner and matching lipstick, in November 2015. Thanks to clever Instagram marketing, the $29 kits were gone in less than a minute. “Before I even refreshed the page, everything was sold out,” she later told Forbes.

By the end of 2016, Kylie had dozens of new products and a reputation as a skyrocketing new entrant in the cosmetics industry. A few months after her sister Kim Kardashian West scored a Forbes cover in July 2016, Jenner publicists began a campaign to “get a Forbes cover for Kylie.” Revenues were $400 million over the business’ first 18 months, they said, with a personal take-home pay of $250 million for Kylie. Pressed for proof, they opened up their books. During meetings at Kris Jenner’s palatial Hidden Hills, California, estate and the family accountant’s office nearby, Forbes was shown tax returns detailing $307 million in 2016 revenues and personal income of more than $110 million for Kylie that year. It would have been enough to put her at N0. 2 on the Celebrity 100 list, behind only Taylor Swift, the accountant was quick to point out. But the documents, despite looking authentic and bearing Kylie Jenner’s signature, weren’t exactly convincing since the story they told, of e-commerce brand Kylie Cosmetics growing from nothing to $300 million in sales in a single year, was hard to believe.

After speaking with a handful of analysts and industry experts who also found the Jenners’ claims implausible, we settled on a more reasonable estimate for our 2017 Celebrity 100 list: $41 million in overall earnings for Kylie, good for the No. 59 spot. Kris was “so frustrated,” the Jenners’ PR flack shot back. “We’ve done so much.”

Two months later, a story appeared in WWD, a trade publication known as “the bible of fashion,” using the exact numbers the Jenners first tried to give Forbes. “There has been raging speculation about the size of her business, with guesstimates ranging from $50 million up to $300 million,” the story reads. “Well, here’s the bad news for more-established beauty players: Jenner’s surpassed the higher figure with ease. Kylie Cosmetics actually has done $420 million in retail sales—in just 18 months—Kris Jenner revealed. . . . ” It was the first time the Jenners had publicly disclosed the size of the business, the story boasted—“and they provided WWD with documentation.”

That sky-high revenue number—repeated everywhere from People to CNBC and Fortune—took hold. By the summer of 2018, when Forbes set out to calculate Kylie’s net worth for our list of the richest self-made women, the industry’s opinion of Kylie’s business had shifted. Those huge revenues were “totally possible,” said one analyst, adding that she had heard similar numbers herself. Another suggested revenues were around $350 million. The estimates kept climbing. Revenues were $400 million, according to a Piper Jaffray research note in 2018. An Oppenheimer report projected sales would top $700 million by 2020.

The Jenners offered us their own number: 2017 revenues were up 7%, they said, to $330 million. “No other influencer has ever gotten to the volume or had the rabid fans and consistency that Kylie has had for the last two and a half years,” an executive at e-commerce platform Shopify, which manages Kylie’s online store, told Forbes at the time. Based on her rapid success—certified by industry sources, plus those 2016 tax returns—Kylie appeared on the cover of Forbes magazine in July 2018, ranking No. 27 on our listing of the richest self-made women. At age 20, she was worth $900 million, we estimated, and would soon become the youngest self-made billionaire ever.

“Thank you for this article and the recognition,” Kylie Instagrammed. Kim Kardashian West tweeted her congratulations—twice. “I am SO proud,” Kris Jenner wrote, finally pleased.

The next month Kylie celebrated her 21st birthday at West Hollywood nightclub Delilah, in a Barbie-themed blowout complete with a pink ball pit, performances by Travis Scott and Dave Chappelle—and bartenders in black T-shirts with Kylie’s Forbes cover printed on them, her face plastered next to the words “America’s Women Billionaires.” By early the next year, she officially crossed the ten-digit threshold.


Any doubts that Kylie wasn’t a billionaire were seemingly erased in November 2019, when $8.6 billion (revenues) Coty announced it was snapping up 51% of Kylie Cosmetics for $600 million, effectively valuing the business at about $1.2 billion. The deal gave the struggling 116-year-old Coty a hip, social media-savvy brand to help turn around its sagging balance sheet. It gave Kylie a major chance at expansion, plus a boatload of cash and apparently clear proof of her billionaire status.

In a call with stock analysts, Coty’s chief financial officer heralded the deal as “a compelling financial equation” that would help “make Coty a modern, growing and profitable beauty player.” The analysts were immediately skeptical. It looked like Coty was paying way too much for a celebrity brand that could prove to be just a fad, one charged. Another asked how Coty could be sure Kylie will remain committed to promoting the business in the years to come.

Then there were Kylie’s financials. Revenues over a 12-month period preceding the deal: $177 million, according to the Coty presentation—far lower than the published estimates at the time. More problematic, Coty said that sales were up 40% from 2018, meaning the business only generated about $125 million that year, nowhere near the $360 million the Jenners had led Forbes to believe. Kylie’s skin care line, which launched in May 2019, did $100 million in revenues in its first month and a half, Kylie’s reps told us. The filings show the line was actually “on track” to finish the year with just $25 million in sales.

“I think everybody was surprised,” says Wissink, the Jefferies analyst, who was on the call. “The negative that came out of that announcement was that the business was a lot smaller than everybody had expected.”

So much smaller, in fact, that there’s virtually no way the numbers the Jenners were peddling in earlier years could be true either. If Kylie Cosmetics did $125 million in sales in 2018, how could it have done $307 million in 2016 (as the company’s supposed tax returns state) or $330 million in 2017?

One explanation: Kylie’s business quietly fell by more than half in a single year. If so, Coty paid up for a “high-growth” brand that is actually a much smaller business than it was just a few years ago. (Coty would not answer any questions about Kylie Cosmetics for this story.) Data from e-commerce firm Rakuten, which tracks a select number of receipts, suggests there was a 62% decline in Kylie’s online sales between 2016 and 2018.

Still, virtually every industry expert polled by Forbes thinks the business couldn’t have collapsed by so much so quickly. “It seems unlikely that much revenue could have evaporated overnight,” says Evercore analyst Omar Saad. “There doesn’t seem to be any evidence the business has cratered,” adds cosmetics veteran Jeffrey Ten, who has led companies like Note Cosmetics, Nyx and Calvin Klein Beauty. “If so, why would Coty buy it?”

More likely: The business was never that big to begin with, and the Jenners have lied about it every year since 2016—including having their accountant draft tax returns with false numbers—to help juice Forbes’ estimates of Kylie’s earnings and net worth. While we can’t prove that those documents were fake (though it’s likely), it’s clear that Kylie’s camp has been lying.

There’s also the issue of profit: Forbes had been estimating that her business, which has little overhead, was notching 44% net margins. But Coty’s filings indicate that Kylie’s profits are likely lower than we figured, since her Ebitda margin—which factors in some, but not all, of her expenses—is only around 25%.

For years, the Jenners insisted that all of those profits went directly to Kylie because she owned the business outright. But Coty’s purchase agreement specifically lists a “KMJ 2018 Irrevocable Trust,” controlled by Kristen M. Jenner, as owning a profit interest in Kylie Cosmetics. Upon the sale, the document says the trust would get a capital, or ownership, interest in the company. The Jenners initially told Forbes that the trust holds money Kylie Jenner earned before she turned 18 and that Kylie is its beneficiary. But the trust appears to have been created well after Kylie turned 18, and the Jenners declined to offer any proof to back up their claims. Given the lack of clarity—and the history of lies—we’re erring on the side of caution and assuming that the trust belongs to Kris Jenner. That means Kylie Jenner owns an estimated 44.1% of Kylie Cosmetics, rather than 49%.

“You have to remember they are in the entertainment business,” says Ten. “Everything in entertainment has to be exaggerated to get attention.”


Taking all this new information into account and factoring in the pandemic, Forbes has recalculated Kylie’s net worth and concluded that she is not a billionaire. A more realistic accounting of her personal fortune puts it at just under $900 million, despite the headlines surrounding the Coty deal that seemed to confirm her billionaire status. More than a third of that is the estimated $340 million in post-tax cash she would have pocketed from selling a majority of her company. The rest is made up of revised earnings based on her business’ smaller size and a more conservative estimate of its profitability, plus the value of her remaining share of Kylie Cosmetics—which is not only smaller than the Jenners led us to believe but is also worth less now than it was when the deal was announced in November, given the economic effects of the coronavirus.

Coty’s share price has fallen more than 60% since the deal was struck, and even better-performing competitors like Ulta Beauty and Estée Lauder are still down single digits. Add that to the fact that Wall Street tends to think Coty paid too much to begin with and there is no way to realistically peg Kylie’s net worth above a billion—despite her massive cash-out.

As usual, we asked the Jenners for input on our numbers. But pressed for answers on the many discrepancies, the typically chatty family did something out of character: They stopped answering our questions.

Additional reporting by Chloe Sorvino and Natalie Robehmed

I cover the most successful entrepreneurs doing the biggest deals on the planet. As deputy wealth editor, I help put together the Forbes 400 and World’s Billionaires lists and oversee Forbes’ coverage of billionaires. My reporting has taken me everywhere from the world’s largest cardboard box factory to Donald Trump’s penthouse. Email me at cpeterson-withorn@forbes.com.

I cover the intersection of Hollywood and money—that’s everything from media moguls to the highest-paid actors to YouTube stars. When my reporting isn’t taking me to Hollywood restaurants and Atlanta’s movie lots, I’m writing about the world’s richest, including billionaires and self-made women entrepreneurs. Prior to Forbes, I wrote about media, food and education for the New York Observer, and about the New York shopping scene for Racked. Follow me on Twitter @MadelinePBerg. Have tips? Send them to me anonymously at forbes.com/tips, and submit sensitive documents anonymously and securely at SafeSource.forbes.com.

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