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Taco Bell’s new Defy restaurant is pure drive-thru.Taco Bell
Five hours into a long drive through New England last week, I needed coffee. I pulled up to a Dunkin’ in Gorham, New Hampshire, parked, and got out of the car. Mistake. In the donut-scented interior, I learned that this Dunkin’ wasn’t taking orders in the store—only at the drive-thru and via the app. Reluctantly, I downloaded Dunkin’, selected a large cold brew, tapped in my credit card number, and watched in silence as two workers prepared and placed the coffee on the largely obsolete counter.
Seven days later, I got an email—“Are Your Cravings Calling?”—that left me unsure if I’d signed up for DD or AA. I was part of the Dunkin’ digital universe now, which is right where the company, owned by Atlanta-based Inspire Brands, wants me. Certainly more than in the actual store. Last August, Dunkin’ opened its first “digital” location on Beacon Street in Boston. There are no cashiers, replaced by touchscreens and mobile ordering, and no seats or tables.
Dunkin’ is far from alone. Name a fast-food restaurant and the odds are the company has recently developed a branch without any restaurant at all. Chipotle’s first “Digital Kitchen,” which opened in upstate New York in 2020, has no dining room. A branch that opened last year in the Cleveland suburbs doesn’t even let customers inside the store.
This summer, Taco Bell opened something it calls Taco Bell Defy, which is not a restaurant at all but a purple taco tollbooth powered by QR code readers and dumbwaiters that bring the food down from a second-story kitchen. The operation is, by most accounts, astoundingly efficient. Wingstop’s “restaurant of the future” doesn’t have seats or take cash.
What’s driving this trend? Partly savings on real estate and labor. But mostly it’s a response to consumer preference. Pushed by pandemic restrictions and pulled by the increasing ease of mobile transactions, customers have rushed into drive-thrus, delivery, and mobile ordering. Even with coronavirus fears in most Americans’ rear-view mirror, Chipotle’s in-restaurant sales now account for just a third of its business. At Panera, which opened its first to-go-only locations this summer, that figure is under 20 percent.
“It’s a way to cater to changing customer-order behaviors,” explains Emma Beckett, an editor at Restaurant Dive, an industry publication. While smaller store footprints and radical new designs are mostly reserved for new locations, she says, the arms race is on to remodel older stores with drive-thru lanes. “Everyone wants double or triple drive-thrus, so those parcels are becoming competitive, because there are only so many corner lots that can accommodate that.”
Everything is moving in the direction of Checkers and Rally’s, two drive-thru chains that were early to this idea. Take Salad And Go, the nine-year-old budget salad chain that now has dozens of locations in Arizona and Texas. Salad And Go has no inside at all, nor does it usually bother with picnic benches or even parking spots, like Sonic. Founder Roushan Christofellis has said the stores’ “microfootprints” are the secret to their super-affordable salads. As a bonus, no public interior space means you don’t need to build customer parking.
Wherever Americans are eating, it isn’t inside fast-food joints. To meet this shift, some chains, like Wendy’s and Qdoba, have embraced “ghost kitchens,” unmapped, closed-door facilities where food for delivery might be prepared for a dozen different brands at once.
Increasingly, the logic behind ghost kitchens is finding its way into public-facing retail design too. Last year, I wrote about how the rise in digital ordering was messing up the fast-casual experience, as restaurant workers struggled under a workload that depended little on the number of customers in the store. The good news is they are working on solving the problem. The bad news is: I am the problem.
Like the parallel remote-work phenomenon, the rise of what McDonald’s calls the Three D’s—digital, drive-thru, and delivery—may reflect an ongoing social atomization as the shared spaces that emptied out during the pandemic are slow to fill back up, to the point that walk-up, dine-in customers like me are no longer the focus, and might even be a nuisance. Often lauded as a vital “third space” for seniors, teenagers, and families in communities that lack friendly public spaces, McDonald’s unveiled a concept store in 2020 that has no seating at all.
It does, however, have algorithms inside the My McDonald’s App. “Imagine what can happen once we start to know, ‘Oh, Brian’s coming to the restaurant,’ and what we can do,” McDonald’s digital engagement head Lucy Brady told Wired in 2020. It’s like a 21st-century version of the waitress asking if you’ll have the usual.
On the other hand, to-go orders might not be replacing meals with friends as much as they’re eating into grocery-store spending. In the 2010s, American restaurant spending surpassed grocery spending for the first time, a dramatic shift from the 1990s when U.S. consumers spent $3 at the grocery for every $2 at the restaurant. “Breakfast spending is the fastest-growing daypart,” one industry analyst observed, “and that’s the ultimate utility. No one is sitting down for breakfast.”
That’s probably what’s motivating coffee-centric chains, among which Panera isn’t the only one scrambling to scrap seating areas. As Jonathan Maze wrote this summer in Restaurant Business Online, “Dutch Bros, which went public last year, rocketed to become the third-largest coffee chain with a model that features no seating. The fifth largest is Scooters Coffee, which is also a drive-thru-only concept. The fourth largest, Minneapolis-based Caribou, is focusing all its attention on growing drive-thru-only locations.” The occasion for Maze’s piece was the first drive-thru-only Tim Horton’s.
Something similar is happening at Starbucks. Despite its roots as an urban gathering place whose comfy chairs, Wi-Fi, and bathrooms invite customers to linger, on-and-off closures related to COVID have helped accelerate a business shift toward mobile, delivery, and drive-thru, which now make up almost three quarters of the brand’s U.S. revenue. And that’s just fine with Starbucks brass: Those customers make bigger purchases than the ones who walk in and order at the counter.
Starbucks opened its first “Starbucks Pickup” store in 2019, in Manhattan, and the model has since expanded to cities across the country. “These stores center on convenience and illustrate one way we can meet evolving customer behaviors in dense, urban locations,” a spokesperson says. As for Starbucks’ role as social infrastructure, the company has said it is “creating the digital third space.” “We plan to create a series of branded NFT collections, the ownership of which initiates community membership, and allows for access to exclusive experiences and perks,” chief marketing officer Brady Brewer wrote in May. Your Viennese coffee house could never.
You can see the zeitgeist in the rise of another coffee chain, Blank Street, whose New York locations rewards mobile pre-orders and often eschew seating altogether in favor of tiny, low-rent retail footprints. Most don’t have bathrooms, but then Howard Schultz has said Starbucks may reverse its own open-bathroom policy, citing problematic customer behavior. After closing a store in Philadelphia due to “safety” issues, Starbucks’ new Center City location has neither seating nor restrooms.
Perhaps we shouldn’t take these seatless concept stores too seriously. After all, they represent only a tiny experiment compared to the nation’s tens of thousands of existing fast-food restaurants, which, the Dunkin’ in Gorham, New Hampshire excepted, continue to offer old-fashioned thrills such as ordering with a human cashier and sitting at a table to eat. And let’s be honest, fast food’s appeal has always been the food—not the human connection and certainly not the ambiance.
“Pre-pandemic, about 50 percent of food was consumed on premise and 50 percent was drive-thru and delivery,” said Mark Landini, a retail designer who has worked with McDonald’s and other brands. “Because of the pandemic, that’s now changed to 20-80.” Landini specializes in eye-catching designs, and he suggested that further streamlining the fast-food experience might not be good for workers or, in the long run, brands.
(Or, obviously, his firm.) “I think ghost kitchens are a big mistake,” he said. “You’re effectively putting your business in someone else’s hands and the less a brand can manifest its personality, the less you’ll experience it emotionally. If you’re going to reduce that physical interaction for operational economics, or to reach a broader audience, the long-term effect is your product becomes a commodity on someone else’s shelf.”
Then again, the futuristic Taco Bell Defy and its ilk—as well as these companies’ earnings reports—show us where Americans are going, or more precisely, how. It’s not just mobile apps that are making these changes attractive, but an older technology that also promised both freedom and a kind of anti-social isolation: the automobile. The pandemic-fueled rise of the drive-thru just isn’t going away. Maybe it’s because remote work has pushed fast-food spending into suburban, car-dependent locations.
Maybe it’s because sitting down at Chipotle only seemed like a good idea relative to returning to the office, but nothing beats the kitchen table. Maybe it’s because there are more fun things to do at home, online, than ever before. One way or another, vehicle miles traveled are back to where they were in 2020, even though many white-collar workers aren’t in the office five days a week. They’re still going to the drive-thru, though.
we’ll discuss some key challenges of digital ordering and online food delivery for restaurants and how to address them.
1. You punch in delivery orders manually, losing time and sometimes making errors
Many restaurants assign one of their employees to online orders, accepting delivery and takeout orders on the aggregators’ tablets and entering them in your restaurant’s point-of-sale system by hand. This manual task, which is both time and labor intensive, creates a delay in the order flow.
By automating the online order process, you can eliminate human error and free up your staff’s time, to focus on improving the customer experience. With tickets printed in the kitchen in a consistent format, your delivery operation will run much smoother.
2. The more online ordering platforms, the more tablet mayhem
3. Managing your menus across different online ordering platforms takes up a LOT of time
Never before have there been so many restaurants offering delivery and takeout. Therefore it’s crucial to stand out, and one sure-fire way to do this is with a menu adapted for delivery that is clear, attractive, and customizable.
4. You don’t have real-time sales data, and you don’t know what’s been sold online
Analyzing your sales data is one of the best and fastest ways to optimize and grow. If your restaurant is available on multiple online ordering platforms, however, it can be challenging to get a complete overview of all your online sales.
Seamless integration between your online sales channels and your POS system is all it takes to solve this pain. Connecting all your online ordering platforms to your point of sale means you’ll see all your sales data in real-time, on one screen.
5. Customers can order out-of-stock items because your stock isn’t synced with your online channels
Replenishing your inventory can be a complicated job if your stock isn’t automatically updated in your restaurant inventory software or point-of-sale system after an order has been placed online.
Many modern POS systems already include stock management, but to sync with your online sales platforms, restaurants need an active POS integration.
6. Your online orders aren’t in your POS – you’re not VAT compliant
Hospitality businesses are subjected to rigid tax regulations worldwide. In some countries, restaurants and catering services are required to work with a registered cash system – the so-called “white cash register” to avoid fraud.
Automate your online order flow to ensure your online orders, no matter which platform they come from will be sent to your POS system without you having to do anything. It’s that simple!
7. Your restaurant is crowded with riders
Food delivery couriers need to make as many deliveries as possible to earn a living. For them, there’s nothing more frustrating than waiting for a meal that’s not ready for pickup.
One solution is to rethink your restaurant’s design and flow to accommodate specially designed waiting areas for riders. You may also want to think about a screen displaying order statuses that are ideally placed in your delivery pickup area. This will increase the efficiency of your pickup.
8. Customers don’t find your restaurant in the app
Cities like London, Madrid, Amsterdam, Dubai, and New York count thousands of eateries with delivery services. With many of those signed up with platforms like Uber Eats, Postmates, Talabat, and Deliveroo, the number of in-app restaurant listings, and thus competition, is huge.
Faster preparation times, faster delivery times, higher acceptance and online rates,… in short, a better delivery performance will lead to more positive customer reviews and a better position of your listing.
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Then, customize, print-out, or embed a QR-code touchless menu that goes to a mobile ordering system for the restaurant client. When scanned, the QR-code will load the restaurant’s menu for their customers to view and order from on their phone whether in the restaurant or from home.
In addition to their smart menu and ordering system, Forrk can create a fully-fleged mobile site for the client, too. Pick from DFY templates and host the site on Forrk’s servers.
Then, populate their smart menu with the restaurant’s food items and menu deals. Build high-converting intelligent food listings complete with descriptions, reviews, FAQs, videos, deals, and more like McDonald’s or KFC do to boost profits.
Then, integrate the client’s PayPal, Stripe, RazorPay, or other payment processor including manual pay systems to take no-contact payment. Once an order is placed, the restaruant can monitor it and even track order delivery status of mobile or pick-up delivery orders.
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Whether this year’s countdown feels celebratory, contemplative or cathartic (or some mix of all of the above, because 2020 felt both endless and finite), people will be ringing in the new year in various creative and socially distanced methods.
A quiet evening at home can be a chance to carve out your own little fortress of solitude, however, with your nearest and dearest close at hand. Although many of us can’t celebrate at restaurants or bars this year, here are some elements that savvy restaurant designers use to make your evening out a special experience that you can transfer to your own living room for a cozy New Year’s Eve.
1. Cast a spotlight on what matters
Although the soft glow of candlelight is always flattering (and a variety of LED options are available for the accident-prone among us), restaurant designers know to balance out lighting in a way that combines practicality and aesthetics. You may not need to read a menu at home, but squinting at the television is definitely too much effort for a low-key new year’s.
Skip the overhead lights and play with a variety of small table lamps instead (warm white or yellow tinted bulbs are much cozier than blue-based brilliant white options). Worst come to worst, those holiday lights that you haven’t gotten around to taking down can be pressed into service — stick to white or silver for a unified look, and skip the blinking ones unless you want to feel like you’re living in a disco ball.
2. Be careful where you sit
Savvy restaurant designers spend an inordinate amount of time considering seating options — one designer once told me that they personally tested every chair in a 100 seat restaurant for comfort, height and other factors. Don’t just focus on the padding (although that’s certainly a plus), and pay attention to the arm rests, textures and height. Is a love seat, ottoman or even a pile of cushions and throws on the floor the best option for you? Take this opportunity to move around some of your seating to see if there’s a more comfortable arrangement, since many people configure their living space once when they move or get new furniture and consider it to be set in stone.
3. Keep everything in sight
Pull in some small tables for food and drink (more on that in a bit) and see how the heights compare to your eye level when seated: are they within easy reach? Remember to keep sight lines clear to the television and your fellow celebrants (I’ve been to many a wedding where massive centrepieces prevented conversation across a table, for example). On a similar note, take a look at your glassware and remove the overly tall, fragile or eminently tip prone stemware from consideration — nothing spoils a cozy night quicker than breaking out the vacuum to deal with shattered glass.
4. Plate for ease of use
New Year’s Eve is the land of opportunity when it comes to appetizers. A variety of small, distinct bites helps combat palate fatigue and lets us try out new recipes (or previously prepared options, because 2020 has been busy enough) and different pairings. Keep things manageable by limiting the number of plates used to serve or eat — one large platter that is easy to transport between kitchen and dining area, and a couple of small plates per person should be plenty (restaurants have professional dishwashers, after all). Consider your table size before pulling out plates and servingware to avoid overloading and spilling, or perhaps consider having one family member serve up warm foods straight from the oven. Remember to keep the path from the kitchen clear and designate a dish pit for dirty dishes to make cleanup easier later.
5. Sound barrier
Restaurant designers learn early that hard surfaces are the enemy of cozy dining. Bouncing and amplifying sound, hard tile, bare walls or high ceilings can create echo chambers that make a space feel larger but also less intimate. Although sound absorbing elements are typically built into the design (or expensively retrofitted later on once critics start complaining about the cacophonous dining room), you can create sound barriers in your own space by piling on soft surfaces, hanging curtains or decorative textiles on windows or walls, or using room dividers to customize a sitting area.
Note: Because restaurants are hurting this year, consider ordering in some of your celebratory nosh (directly from the restaurant if possible, rather than using a third party app) or donating to a local restaurant workers relief fund if you can.
I’m a Toronto-based freelance writer who has spent the last 18 years traveling the globe as a magazine editor, and a lifetime consuming and exploring the world’s most interesting plates. A former editorial director of several national trade magazines on food, restaurants and fashion, I’ve covered luxury global trends and local flavors — and the chefs, artisans and tastemakers that drive them — across Asia, the Americas and Europe. Whether foraging with herb witches in Germany or hunting for the perfect small batch bourbon, I’m always seeking out new experiences in restaurants, wines and spirits and travel. I’ve also put my Masters degree in Communications to use by teaching magazine journalism and creative writing to the next generation of explorers. I tweet at @leslie_wu
In 2017, Filipino-Brazilian chef Laila Bazahm threw caution to the wind and opened her first restaurant in Barcelona. Since then, Hawker 45 has gone from strength to strength, firmly establishing itself as a local favorite on the Barcelona food scene. Earlier this year, Bazahm decided the time had come to expand the Hawker 45 brand. Not one to do things by halves, she agreed to take over the entire food and beverage offering at AxelBeach Ibiza, a popular LGBTQ+ hotel situated on the beachfront in San Antonio Bay on the Spanish island of Ibiza. Then COVID-19 struck.
This is Laila Bazahm’s story of what it’s like to open a new restaurant—despite being in the midst of a pandemic.
Isabelle Kliger: Please describe your new project at AxelBeach Ibiza.
Laila Bazahm: AxelBeach Ibiza is a “heterofriendly” LGBTQ+ hotel comprising 96 apartments. As of this year, I’m responsible for managing all its food and beverage outlets, including a restaurant, a beach bar, a pool bar, breakfast service and room service, along with 12 members of staff. Compared with overseeing a team of five at my restaurant in Barcelona, it’s quite a large operation. We serve everything from Hawker 45’s signature pan-Asian crowd-pleasers like Singaporean Laksa, Thai-style chicken wings and Malaysian Rendang curry, to beach food like burgers, and a full breakfast menu.
Kliger: What was your original plan and to what extent have you been forced to change it?
Bazahm: We had intended to open on April 1, in good time for summer, but then COVID happened. We finally ended up opening on June 24. Some of the things we’d planned were left hanging this year, due to the uncertainty around how the season would play out, and how reduced traffic would affect our revenue. For example, I had a lot of ideas about marketing, social media, brand collaborations and PR that I wasn’t willing to risk committing to. We also held off on investing in design elements like proper lighting and quality signage. And then there were the parties: Ibiza is all about parties, especially at an LGBTQ+ hotel, where people are looking to make new friends. Big, wild parties just aren’t happening here this season.
Kliger: What safety measures have been implemented as a result of the pandemic?
Bazahm: Firstly, we were all required to take a special course related to COVID-19 protocols. Secondly, we had to cut our occupancy by half and ensure five feet of distance between all sun loungers and tables. Staff wear facemasks and gloves and have their temperature checked daily. In addition, we have to observe a “no dancing” policy, which is quite a challenge, since the majority of our guests come to Ibiza to party.
Kliger: Is everyone following the rules?
Bazahm: Unfortunately, some of the clubs on the island are not fully respecting the social distancing rules and have been organizing crowded parties where not everyone is wearing masks. We refuse to do that. Having experienced the lockdown in Barcelona, and with family in the U.S. and the Philippines, we’re acutely aware of the potential consequences of ignoring social distancing guidelines. We don’t want to contribute to another outbreak.
Kliger: What made you decide to go ahead and open despite the pandemic?
Bazahm: This is our first year collaborating with Axel Hotels. They’ve been tremendously supportive, and that made the decision to go ahead considerably easier. The season may be shorter than usual, but we believed people would come, so we wanted to give it a go. And since we’re in it for the long haul, we figured we’d break even, but learn a lot, and come back stronger next year.
I’ll admit I had a lot of doubts and fears but, sometimes, you just have to jump first and build your plane on the way down.
Kliger: What has been the most challenging aspect of opening a restaurant during a pandemic?
Bazahm: Opening a restaurant—or any other venture for that matter—is already insanely stressful. With COVID, it’s completely nerve-wracking! There are so many factors outside our control, and we live with the ever-present threat of another outbreak and shutdown. I worry a lot about the safety of our team, since we’re all susceptible to catching the virus, no matter how careful we are. That really keeps me up at night.
From a practical perspective, hitting our occupancy targets has been challenging. Dealing with suppliers, many of whom have staff in Spain’s temporary worker furlough scheme, has been a nightmare. But we’re also grateful to the people who’ve offered to help us out.
Kliger: What advice would you give other restaurateurs who might be thinking about whether or not to launch a new project in the current circumstances?
Bazahm: Every situation is different and, in this pandemic, there’s no playbook we can rely on. I mean, who gets into a sport where, the longer you play, the more likely you are to die? If you’re in any kind of entrepreneurial business, you are essentially a gladiator. It requires incredible strength and a very particular psychology. But launching a public-facing, entrepreneurial venture during a global pandemic takes a special kind of madness. It’s definitely not for everyone.
Having grown up in Sweden and studied in the U.K., I moved to Barcelona in 2010 and have never looked back. I write about travel, with a particular focus on all things sustainable and local, and pop culture. My ideal day would involve getting lost in a new city, stumbling upon a tiny restaurant, and getting to sample a dish I’ve never had before. If it happens to be served with red wine or gin (or any kind of local spirit—I’m not fussy), even better. My work can be found in Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, American Way, Departures International, The Guardian, Buzzfeed, and more. Follow me on Instagram @ikliger.